Three Muslins and a Pattern

I'm using a vintage McCall's pattern to make a dress for Laura's graduation next month. It's a Bust 38 which is more or less my size. For me, making a fitted, vintage pattern usually means that I'm going to have to tweak it to fit my 21st century body, and I often find that it's easier to tweak a larger pattern than a smaller one. Anyone else have that experience, no matter when the pattern was published?

I'll show y'all the pattern soon, but I'm feeling too lazy to go look up the number, etc. Suffice it to say that it is a fitted sheath with a waist seam and in a the back a faux wrap with a low V shape. Oh, to top it off, I'm using Colette's Macaron pattern for the skirt. I've made it before and know it works.

This fitted style definitely called for a muslin, at least for the bodice, and I ended up making 3! Not my usual MO that's for sure!

Number 1:

 No tweaks to the pattern except to take a 1/4" off each dart leg, and make the 5/8" seam allowance on the sides taper to 3/8" to the waist just to be able to zip it up.

Number 2:

You can see the pins at the neckline. Above the boobs, I am just much narrower than a Bust 38 size. I also had to scoop out some from the armscyes... the fabric just bunched up. In the back, I raised the "V" so that it will cover the bra. This style made it easy to shorten the back length, and I needed to add to the front length.

Number 3:

Above the boobs still needed tweaking, as you can see. That was pretty much it. All these alterations ended up with this:

The back piece is usable, but I re-traced the front piece to flatten out all those darts and tucks.

Finally, I've made the lining first, just to make sure. No pictures of that, but all is well. The bodice will be lined with a lightweight batiste for comfort, and the skirt will be lined with bemberg lining for the swish.

So... later this afternoon, I cut out the fashion fabric, plus 2 more tops. When the mood strikes to cut stuff out, you just have to go with it, amirite?